EAN: 9781472151414

WILLIAM FINNEGAN - GEBRAUCHT BARBARIAN DAYS A S...

'A masterpiece that recalls early James Salter' Geoff Dyer  Observer Surfing only looks like a
sport. To devotees  it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction  a mental and physical
study  a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in
California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the
world chasing waves through the South Pacific  Australia  Asia  Africa and beyond. Recalling
his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves  he considers the
intense relationship formed between man  board and water. 'Breathtaking' New York Times
'Luscious' Ed Caesar  Guardian

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